6:45am the alarm rings, its dark foggy and my wetsuit is still damp, great! I get to S-turns to see what the waves were doing as we have been waiting for a swell to arrive and clean up from yesterday. It was shoulder high with a slight offshore wind and perfect! I opted to take my first session day, which is a day of your choosing to basically take a sick day to go session. It was a great day to get acquainted with my new 6’0 Stretch Pug. I spent the entire foggy and dreary day getting some of the best waves of my life. Zack and I surfed until about 10am.
The morning session was really fun. We saw the biggest waves of the day first thing. It was surreal being out in the Ocean in the dark and dense fog where you could barley see the sets coming in behind you and could only see a faint outline of where the houses and the beach should be. But there were about 6 of us out scoring amazing waves and taking laps for hours. Best of all, there was no current all day!!!!! The last 30-45 minutes of the first session the waves really died down, so I finally headed in.
I went back to the house for a late breakfast and warmed up for about an hour. I grabbed my other still dry suit (yes!) and headed back out with Zack for round two. The sky started to turn blue but we were denied with the thick fog quick setting in denser than before. We surfed the same place we did earlier but the waves were a bit small faster and more hollow. It was game on! Zack and I went wave for wave for about an hour. The rest of the afternoon session was pretty great.
After a long rest and the joy of putting on a wet 6/5/4mm suit I was back out. It was sunny and warmer about 45 degrees. This time I rode my 9’3 In the Pink with Jeremy. It was a perfect long board session. There were barrels and nose riding, a great sunset and we watched the moon rise as the sets continued to roll in. It was pretty much one of the best day of surfing I have had in a very long time, and by far one of the best days at work!
